SKUNKERS! Howdy once again. I want to dive into your inner druids today; a druid, according to Rev’s definition, is a master all-natural grower with an all-natural mindset. Most of the time, when growing all naturally, with an all-natural mindset, you can simply ask yourself (WWND?): “What would nature do?” And boom, it seems almost too obvious in retrospect and it works perfectly. If you are of a more synthetic mindset, you tend to think “normally” that force-feeding your plants with bottles of magic liquids is always the answer; in fact, it’s your go-to response! That is because you are the product of corporate marketing, that’s all. I was also taught you need bottles of liquid food to grow the best plants, but I’m here to tell you, it isn’t true. And I’ll show ya, just have a little faith baybee … have a little faith—wink.
If you think about it, growing the deadliest top shelf cannabis is all about a lot of little good habits. That’s the truth, and many of these habits are for handling fundamental things, like making sure your water source is awesome (too obvious with an all-natural mindset, right?) water is what a plant is all about, water and light, air and food; a lot like us, eh? Food is the largest part of what we are going to explore today, and how to feed a life form that is essentially operating in a different time dimension—the slow and easy ways of the plant, and the druid—let’s check it out…
All the Important Nutrients: Especially for Excessive & Potent Flowering Results
Elements like potassium (K), phosphorous (P), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), iron (Fe), and sulfur (S), and many more, are taken up by plants in nature, for millions of years now, over the course of some time; a long time. Plants store nutrient elements slowly over time, some individual cannabis plants do this better than others; however, all during their vegetative state of growing they are storing elements that they are saving for when they flower. Some of the nutrients they burn through faster than others, like Ca and Mg; and cannabis is a notorious consumer of these two elements in particular.
Ca and Mg are actually pretty simple to supply to your plants, as long as you do it slowly and consistently. Your plants’ water source should have good levels of totally dissolved Ca and Mg; as well as other ground-water elements at minute levels. Keep the PPM value pretty close to the same for all your watering, and this will encourage both the plants and the soil life to “learn” to be able to count on that consistent flow of minerals and subsequently put them to optimal use.
If your soil mix is amended (customized) make sure your amendments include diverse, longer term mineral sources like rock phosphate, greensand, azomite, gypsum, bone meal, and dolomite lime. Even in something like blood meal, there is longer term iron to be considered, and iron is important. If you make your own compost—which I highly recommend—make sure to add kitchen scraps like cantaloupe, banana peels, and rice for P and K, and iron and calcium. Add broccoli stems, carrot tops, celery trimmings, and anything basically that is dark green to make sure you are getting good iron input; blood meal also makes a primo compost kick-starter with very available nitrogen and of course… the iron.
Nitrogen is easy, and the plant can use available nitrogen quickly. If you see a nitrogen deficiency, the odds are it’s not a nitrogen deficiency at all, but more likely something like potassium (K) deficiency, or overdose. It could be lack of soil aeration also. Trying to “fix” a nitrogen problem by adding a bunch of liquid nitrogen will almost always make things worse … things you won’t really see for about 10 days … because plants really take about 10-14 days to react visibly to any errors (or good moves) on your part. True nitrogen deficiencies will happen when your larger plants stay in pots too small for them for too long, and if that’s the case then you likely actually do have an N issue and a transplant will solve it best.
Any old hydro grower (I used to be a hydro-guy long ago) that has designed and tested their own systems—like I have hundreds of times—knows that roots seek and follow two main things: where the water is coming from, and where the water is leaving from. You can take advantage of this in a big way outdoors by making sure that while your plants are in veg and getting big, you make sure to water them long and deep several times … extra long and deep … this “teaches” roots to dive deep where the clay is at. Clay is pure nutrients and with the help of the fungi and microbial life the plant can tap these resources; it also allows the plant to get water from deep down and makes your plants uber stable in high winds.
I would always grow seed plants outdoors because you really want that mighty tap-root working for you in many ways, and clones are lacking that main tap-root. Also, if you use a pump-driven drip system (in containers or in the ground) consider using mini-sprayers so you can effectively moisten the top of the soil—the mulch—every time you water, allowing the plant (roots) to “learn” to keep a lot of fine root hairs up around the top of the soil, where coincidentally, a huge amount of food is available due to the high levels of air and microbial life. I would also have the sprayers come on every morning about an hour after lights are on just briefly in order to wet the mulch layer—just like morning dew in nature. This little trick pays huge dividends—believe it.
We All Love Kelp, But…
I warn you guys about this a lot because it’s a sneaky trap. Using soluble or liquid kelp must be done EXTREMELY sparingly; and is used best in teeny amounts more often. The problem is these products throw the soil microbes into disarray due to their effect on the PPM levels of the water. Use these products a little too often/strong and you get a potassium overdose resulting in a salt toxicity level—which appears (expresses itself) as a nitrogen and potassium (and possibly calcium too) deficiency most often, certainly in my experience. Just make sure and add some kelp meal (not kelp extract) to your compost and to your soil mix, and you won’t have to even worry about it. Kelp meal and greensand really can fully cover your plants’ potassium needs easily as well as covering beaucoup other nutrient elements.
You don’t need to go buy kelp meal if you are coastal living. Just go grab some kelp at the beach, rinse it off and dry it in the sun, crunch it up, and add that magic from the sea to your compost and soil mix.
Slow Your Roll, Artisans in Training
PIC: Grow the Real Deal Bad Ass Cannabis
Patience is your most valuable virtue when growing all naturally, top dressing with things like bird or bat guanos should be done in small little piles right on top of the soil—like it happens in nature—and two weeks later add a little more, and so on if desired, like when larger plants are kept in smaller containers too long, and this move goes a long way to help; just remember it will take about 8 to 10 days to actually show. Also, your microbial life will evolve fairly quickly if you just don’t screw them up by adding things that alter their environment (the water and soil) quickly. Within a month your microbial life in your soil is just crazy adapted (evolved) to your specific conditions—if allowed to do so. Since bacteria reproduce (exponentially) every 20 minutes or so in the soil at grow room temps, you can easily see how evolution can be leveraged for you and your gardens. Just some patience baybee, just a little patience.
I hope you enjoyed this little read, my friends. I just want to keep your all-natural mindset alive and well, because the marketing asshats are working hard to make you believe things that are wildly inaccurate for their pure profit, period. And remember, science is good; but, bullshit masquerading as science is just bullshit. Ya feel me? Keep the shiny side up and the dirty side down good peeps, until next time… REvski out.
Off the Wall Rev Lighter Tip
These are some awesome lighters. You get a four-pack of them for less than $15.00 and they are perfect for smoking doobies, any side-burning is easily dealt with. Beautiful for bongloads by just touching the bowl with the flame. Also primo for smoking full melt hash or honey oil in glass pipes (like opium/crack pipe style glass pipes); and a must have for lighting regular hash, you can easily just get a small piece of the hash burning really well and no need to ever light it again. I don’t have anything to do with these guys other than I have bought 8 of these lighters for all over my house and car, as well as giving a few to friends. I gotta give these baybees two big thumbs up. I love these things. 😊 Here’s a link if they sound like something you would dig on…
LINK TO TORCH LIGHTERS ON AMAZON: http://a.co/9U9nD5B
TLO Revised Edition by The Rev
PIC: Try Some TLO Grown Buds and Experience the Difference
Back when I was a cannabis cash cropper—for about 3 decades—we always had our own personal gardens that were just for us. I am just a personal home grower these days, but even if you are a big commercial grower you likely have your own personal garden; if you are a connoisseur, then almost for sure you do. My latest book will show you the ropes and guide you to the most elegant cannabis you have ever grown/smoked. Once you are able to dial in TLO on a smaller artisan scale it is much-much easier to apply the dynamic to larger gardens for commercial applications. So, grab my latest book my esteemed homeskillets, and see what you can really do. Cheers and thank you for the support. Here’s the link to my latest book…
LINK TO MY TRUE LIVING ORGANICS BOOK (2nd Edition) ON AMAZON: http://a.co/8Fwj1Zw